Often considered queen of the indoor plants, the African violet was first discovered in Tanzania in 1892. Originally the flowers were limited to shades of blue, white and lavender, but thanks to years of hybridizing efforts many color variations are now available.

African violets also vary in size and form. There are miniature varieties that grow to less than 6” in diameter, standard varieties which average 8”-12” in diameter (but can exceed 18”-24” when grown for exhibition), and trailing varieties which can be grown as ground covers or as hanging plants.

Ideally, African violets prefer the natural light of a south facing window but they can grow well with artificial lighting, too. The key is to provide them with 8-12 hours of light per day. For more even growth, it is helpful to rotate the plants a quarter turn each day. They grow best in temperatures between 65ºF and 75ºF, which will help promote quick flowering cycles and better absorption of plant foods.

It is important to allow the soil for African violets to dry out completely between waterings. When watering, try to avoid watering the leaves, as this can leave behind unsightly stains. We recommend feeding them every two weeks, year-round, with a soluble plant food such as Dr. Earth Liquid Solution 3-3-3. This will keep the foliage a nice shade of dark green and help the flowers produce a more intense color.

African violets are one of the most popular houseplants and very easy to grow. With good bright light and regular feedings, they will bloom joyfully all year long! We invite you to stop by soon and bring a few home.

The venerable queen of Europe's historical gardens is unquestionably the rose. Her sovereignty holds sway over all others with an unforgettable aroma, color and elegance. Your garden will bring all others to their knees if you take a chance and plant these pulchritudinous perfumeries.

Begin by staking out--literally--where you plan to place these beauties. Using bamboo stakes will aid you in evenly spacing them. They will thrive in full sun and well-drained soil. Group them by color, maintaining a harmonious flow throughout your garden by combining them in a proportionate, orderly and congruous manner. And remember that a soil pH level of 5.5 to 6.6 is the ultimate medium for raising a rose garden.

We're discussing bare-root roses today, which are harvested in late fall and early winter after cool weather encourages dormancy. If you are wise, and purchase your roses at the most reliable of sources, a nursery, all of the soil around their roots will have been removed, and the roots surrounded with moist wood shavings, allowing for easy inspection.

Roses come in three grades; grade 1 is the best and therefore the most expensive. The requirement for this grade is that the plants must have at least three strong canes, two of which must be at least 18 inches in length for hybrid teas and grandifloras. The canes should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter. Grade 1½ requires at least two strong canes, 15 inches long for hybrid teas and grandifloras, and at least 1/8 inch in diameter. Grade 2 is the least expensive grade, and also the least reliable; they could end up an unwanted gamble. The thicker the diameter, the better the plant, no matter from which of the hundreds of varieties you choose.

Soak the bare-root rose plants overnight in a bucket of tepid water prior to planting, for rehydration. Then dig a hole, 2 feet by 2 feet and at least 14 to 18 inches deep. Amend your existing soil with a good rose soil mix like Gardner & Bloome Rose & Flower Planting Mix.

In the center of the hole, firmly pat the earth into a cone. Spread out the rose's roots over this cone, placing the bud union (between the roots and limbs) at the correct level. The bud union is the most susceptible part of the plant, so placement either above or below the soil line is of utmost importance.

If you live in areas with extremely cold winters, bury the bud union about 2 to 6 inches below the surface of the ground for protection. But in milder zones, plant the rose with the bud union about 1 to 1 ½ inches above ground level. Back-fill the hole with additional soil mixture, remembering to gently tamp the soil around the roots. Water well, and why not add a solution of fish emulsion for that little boost?

Prior to the first bloom, add two inches of mulch over the entire bed; this will keep the roots cool and moist, conserve moisture in hot weather, and help to prevent weeds from gaining a foothold. As soon as your plant blooms, it is developed enough for feeding with a rose plant food. Liquid is always preferable to granular as it is immediately available to the roots. Feed with Dr. Earth Organic 3 Rose & Flower Fertilizer after the initial bloom cycle and once a month thereafter; cease feeding two months before the first frost.

Now take a break from your labors, and imagine what this bundle of sticks you've just planted will soon look like. Beauteous blooms will abound, and all because you cared enough to make the effort. Congratulations!

Gardeners who have learned the glories of picking fresh fruit from their own orchards eagerly await the bare root season to take their list of desired trees to the local nursery. Your first look at the bare root fruit tree that you envision bearing baskets of fresh sweet fruit may be a bit of a disappointment; it won't win a beauty contest. But there is a bonus to buying bareroot. As those smart gardeners know, you get great fruit trees at a price considerably less than a containerized tree.

Unlike evergreen fruits such as citrus, deciduous trees go through a dormant phase during which they lose all their leaves. Whether you're choosing plum, nectarine, pear, peach, pomegranate, persimmon, cherry or quince trees, the safest time to dig these young ones from the field for transportation to the nursery sans soil on their roots, is when they are in a state of dormancy, hence the term "bare root." Planting your trees without soil from a foreign area means that the roots will grow into the native soil, the same soil they will remain in during their life span, thus ensuring a healthier, stronger tree.

True gardeners have learned patience. They will choose the smaller specimens, as the larger the tree the more out of balance will be the root to stem ratio. And while it may be momentarily painful, top that first year bare root off at 2 to 3 feet in height, with no side branches remaining. Doing this means that the scaffold, which is the lower side supporting structural branches, will be lower to the ground, making harvesting and pruning less of a chore. And while we're on pruning, peaches and nectarines will need to be heavily pruned each dormant season; apples, pears, almonds, plums, persimmon and apricots, once they are established, will only require moderate pruning.

It's wisest to ready the planting holes for your trees prior to going to the nursery, so that you can get them into the ground the same day. As with most plants and trees, they like loose soil with good drainage, and sunny locations. If your soil conditions are less than perfect, but the location you've chosen is, why not plant your new additions in a raised bed? This allows you to completely control the soil into which you are placing the trees.

Group trees that have similar spraying needs, and those varieties of fruit trees that require pollinators. Bees and the wind will assist you with this, so how lucky if your neighbors have cultivars that are needed for pollination of your trees!

Your planting hole should be wide rather than deep. A depth the length of the rootstock, or approximately 1.5 feet, should suffice. Put your hands into the earth and form a slight mound. Place your tree on the mound, gently spreading out the roots so that they aren't encircling the tree. Use the native soil to fill in the hole, and don't fertilize until you see growth on the tree. For the first two years, dilute the fertilizer by half so that young roots do not get burned.

It will take a couple of years before your bare root fruit tree actually bears fruit, but what a relatively short wait for the satisfaction of knowing that you were a part of the growth process nearly from the beginning. And imagine how sweet that first bite of fruit will taste!

• Fertilize your plant every two weeks after the blooming season with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. Continue through August.
• By March or early April, when the colored bracts begin to turn or fall, cut the plant back, leaving 4 to 6 buds.
• Re-pot into a slightly larger container (2-3 inches larger in diameter).
• Keep the plant indoors near (not directly in) a sunny window or outdoors in a morning sun-afternoon shade location. Water and fertilize regularly, and by the end of May you should see vigorous new growth.
• Make sure to turn the plant so that the new growth grows evenly on all sides.
• If you have been growing them outdoors in the summer, when fall comes bring your poinsettia indoors to a sunny location before night temperatures fall below 55-60°F at night. Check for pests and diseases and place the poinsettia in a south window.
• Poinsettias begin to set buds and produce flowers as the nights become longer.
• Beginning October 1, keep your plants in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours each night by moving it into a dark room or placing a large box over it.
• During the day, allow 6-8 hours of bright sunlight. Flowers should mature in 60-85 days.
• Continue this for 8-10 weeks, and your poinsettias should develop a colorful display of holiday blooms!

Wishing you and yours a very happy and safe New Year!

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