Looking around at the choices available in tomato plants, it's easy to get confused. What do they mean by determinate and indeterminate — not to mention semi-determinate? Should one buy an heirloom or a hybrid? Everyone knows what a cherry tomato is — but what is the difference between a beefsteak and a salad tomato?

Determinate, Indeterminate, and Semi-determinate

Determinate varieties are also known as bush tomatoes. They stop growing when fruit sets on the top bud, ripen most of their fruit in a short period, usually about 2 weeks, and then die. They generally require no staking or caging and are usually early-maturing. Pruning is not recommended. The plants and their fruit are generally smaller than indeterminate sorts. Most varieties that do well in pots are determinate.

Indeterminate varieties are also called "vining" tomatoes. They grow, bloom, and produce fruit until the end of the growing season (generally first frost). These almost always require staking or caging for support, and pruning may be required.

Semi-indeterminate varieties are basically indeterminate in nature, but have some determinate qualities, such as earlier yield and less need for staking.

Non-hybrid, Heirloom and Hybrid

Tomatoes are usually self-fertilizing. A non-hybrid tomato is one that has been allowed to self-fertilize to produce non-hybrid seed. Growers can save seed of non-hybrid tomatoes to plant the next season's crop. Non-hybrid tomatoes will grow true from seed. Old, non-hybrid, cultivated varieties are often known as heirloom varieties.

Hybrid tomatoes have two genetically different parents that are crossed each year to produce the hybrid tomato seed. Although hybrid tomatoes do produce seed, the seeds will not have the characteristics of the hybrid — though it can be fun to plant them just to see what you get!

General Types

Beefsteak Tomatoes

Beefsteak tomatoes are known for large size and thick, meaty flesh. The pulp cavity of this type is small and may resemble a 'marbled' steak — hence the name. This meatiness makes them hold together well when sliced, and the large size makes them great for sandwiches. One slice does the trick!

Salad Tomatoes

Also referred to as globe or slicing tomatoes, this variety is medium-sized, meaty enough to hold together well, and juicy. The smaller size makes them popular for salad wedges (bite-sized), or sliced to accompany a meal.

Cherry Tomatoes

Measuring less than an inch in diameter, these tomatoes make excellent bite-sized nibbles or tasty additions to salads. Cherry tomatoes are also great for grilling on skewers. Sub-types include grape and currant tomatoes, which are smaller in size but slightly sweeter than regular cherry tomatoes.

Plum Tomatoes

Also known as Roma, these are egg-shaped tomatoes that have thick skin and flesh. They are less juicy than most other varieties, which makes them good candidates for baking, canning, and broiling. They also do well for sauces and paste.

Paste Tomatoes

These are dryer than other varieties; many plum tomatoes are also 'paste tomatoes.' They are good for making tomato paste and dried tomatoes.

Fuchsias should be covered with a blanket of bloom right now. When the individual flowers of most fuchsia varieties fade they fall off the plant, but they leave their seed pods still attached to the branch. Pinch off these seed pods, or berries as they're often called, as often as possible after the flowers fall. This keeps the plants blooming.

If you don't have time for removing seed pods, grow single varieties rather than double varieties. Note: The top four, often upward curving, petallike parts of fuchsias are called the sepals. The true petals hang down in the center and are called the corolla. Varieties with five or six petals in the corolla are considered single. Flowers with big, fluffy, many-petalled corollas are double.)

Water fuchsias regularly to prevent them from drying out, but don't overwater. Soggy soil can lead to root rot, fuchsias' worst enemy. Be on the lookout for pests, and spray if necessary.

Visit nurseries to pick out new fuchsia varieties now and you'll have the summer and fall to enjoy them. Choose them according to the environment you'll provide. White and pastel colors usually need more shade. Reds, purples, and small single varieties can usually take more sun. No fuchsia can bloom in solid shade; all need partial sun, such as under a lath, shade cloth, or an open tree.

In hot-weather areas concentrate on growing heat-resistant varieties. Upright varieties are best in the ground or tubs. Trailers are best in hanging baskets.

by Tamara Galbraith

I've heard it a million times: "I can't grow lavender."

The problem most gardeners have is drainage. Growing lavender gives new meaning to the oft-heard phrase "needs well-drained soil." With lavender, they ain't kiddin'.

Given that fact, only young, small lavender plants do well in a container. In general, lavender will do best in the ground, as long as the soil is — you guessed it — well draining. My personal trick is three-fold:

• Add lots of expanded shale (or a similar pebble-like additive) and compost like Kellogg Amend to the planting hole.
• Mound the soil up and plant the lavender on a small hill.
• Mulch around the base of the plant with small rocks.

All of these steps ensure that the all-important excellent drainage requirements are met. Once established, lavender plants are quite drought tolerant and relatively care-free.

Ok, so now that you're an expert at growing lavender...what do you do with it? Well, we all know the fragrance of most lavender cultivars is to die for; it's easy to collect and dry the spent flowers and make your own sachets. The fragrance of lavender is believed to relieve headaches, so try sprinkling some of the flowers in your next hot bath.

Lavender is also an essential part of Herbes de Provence, a spice/herb mixture used for everything from salads to meat rubs. And if you find lavender-flavored honey for sale - buy it. Believe me, you'll never want to put anything else on an English muffin again.